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On a clear January night, we sped along a deserted beach with the Indian Ocean lapping at the shore. The hardest ground was at the water's edge. Rainer drove as close as he could, dodging the waves and racing through the soft sand above the water line. The African sky was clear and moonless but it shone with the sparkle of a million stars. The headlights picked out
thousands of scattering ghost crabs and the crunch beneath the tyres told that many were now more ghost than crab.
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